August 10, 2006
Kerala is well known as one of the most progressive states in the Indian subcontinent. It was in this state that social reformer Sri Narayana Guru emerged. Between 1888 and 1928, Narayana Guru transformed the social fabric of Kerala. To overcome the Brahmin hegemony, he began to consecrate temples where all were welcome. Narayana Guru paved the way for a gradual cultural revolution that eventually led to the first ever democratically elected Communist Party in 1957. The Communist Party won the hearts of the majority of Keralans who were, and still are, mainly farmers.
Surrounded by this lush green environment is the small port city of Cochin. As Peace Boat’s gangway opened participants rushed out into the mystic spontaneity that is so distinct to the lessons India offers. About 70 of these participants were greeted by members of KSSP (Kerala Sastra Sahitya Parishad – which translates in English to Science Writers’ Forum of Kerala). Started as a small organization in 1962, KSSP’s initial activity was to translate English scientific books into Malayalam (the local language) so that this knowledge would be accessible to the local population.
Having grown to 60,000 members, KSSP is now a network of 2,000 small community units working with panchayats (village councils) across a range of development issues including education, environment, women’s empowerment, energy, and communication. We were invited to visit Thiruvanjiyoor village to view the activities that KSSP is initiating there, and to communicate with the villagers.
Our first stop was to visit St. George high school where we were greeted with garlands of paper cranes, long passionate speeches by local elders who proclaimed their solidarity with Peace Boat’s cause, coconut milk in thankful green shells, the voices of hundreds of children singing, and sparkling eyes that showed a mutual curiosity in the wide diversity of our shared world.
On to lunch with local families whom, judged by Japanese economic standards, live in poverty but in whose homes a glowing warmth provides a striking contrast to the stark reality that such a scene is now rare in most high-strung consumer societies. CC (Communication Coordinator) Shradha and I asked our kind hostess how much time she had spent cooking the beautiful Keralan meal that lay out before us on a banana leaf, to which she responded “six hours” with a grin and another spoonful of spiced shavings of green papaya.
Saying goodbye to our families we went on to Philomina high school where we were lucky enough to observe lessons for housewives, held for free weekly on Sundays. Here women learn the basics of electronic appliances, home gardening, soap making, language, and various other lessons helpful for improving their daily lifestyles.
We also visited a local vegetable market where anyone can auction off their vegetables and where we were treated to a feast of pineapple, jackfruit, and small potent bananas snapped straight off a harvested stem.
The day came to a touching end when close to 100 villagers greeted us, lined up on both sides of a long path that led to the Saji Memorial Club of Sports and Art. Here children dressed in their best dresses threw flowers and welcomed us with signs that read “Happy Friendship Day” and “Thanks for your precious visit”. After a short ceremony of greetings and singing, Peace Boat members donated two large boxes of children’s books to the Club’s library.
During the long bus ride back to the ship, I couldn’t help but wonder what those kind and curious eyes had seen in us, and what essential depth their perspective could have added to this story.
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